One major setback was related to an essential feature of my new watch: water resistance.
I found a local watchmaker that had a pressure tester to check my previous and new watch. Disappointingly, the new creation failed miserably. So I replaced the caseback gasket with a slightly thicker one, but the problem lied with the crystal gasket.
But more shocking, was the water resistance of my previous beater! It passed with flying colors. Both the negative and positive pressure test, up to 100m! This all with an exhibition caseback and without a screw-down crown. I couldn’t believe it.
So after a week of fiddling around, I bit the bullet and applied a thin layer of cement around the edge of the crystal before installing it in the project watch. I also installed a new bezel insert that I like MUCH better. The beta is ready.
I also tested out what an exhibition caseback would look like with my decorated movement (isn’t it beautiful?):
Lastly here are some updated specs after re-testing the watch today:
- Water resistance: 100 m :clap:
- Dial up position:
- Accuracy: +1 s/day
- Beat error: 0.2 ms
- Amplitude: 315 °
Almost a month after I ordered all the pieces, the alpha version of my new watch is ready and ticking!
(click to enlarge)The last part arrived about 10 days ago and it took about 5 hours to get it all together. Unfortunately, the bezel came with a small dent and a new one is on the way. The hour hand has a bit of metal showing and another one is en route as well.
(click to enlarge)After the initial casing and regulating in the dial up position for 48 hours, I decided to do a final cleaning of the case and install the winding rotor. Since I’m a moron, I dropped the movement onto the case when installing it for the final time! :wallbash: The freaking dial got scratched and a new one is on order.
(click to enlarge)Anyways, after another week of regulating, I wore it for the first time today. So far, the movement runs really well and is +3.5 to +7 seconds per day depending on the position. We’ll see how it runs with wear.
Here are some images from the build:
Specs:
- Case:
- Diameter: 40mm (44.2mm with crown)
- Lug Width: 20mm
- Height: 11.85m
- Lug to Lug: 47.5mm
- Bezel: 120 clicks (unidirectional)
- Crown: triple-lock, screw-down
- Crystal: sapphire (AR coated on inside)
- Water Resistance: pending
- Weight: 88g (including strap)
- Dial:
- Diameter: 28.0mm (26.75mm viewable)
- Lume: SuperLuminova C1
- Movement:
- Seagull ST21 (ETA 2824-2 equivalent)
- Decoration: Côtes de Genève, perlage, nickel plated
- Diameter: 25.6mm
- Height: 4.6mm
- 28,000 BPH (beats per hour)
- Accuracy: +3.5 to +7 seconds/day (measured)
